It is proving difficult to leave La Paz. Two days ago I went to the office of Amazonas the local airline serving Bolivia to book a flight to Sucre and was told I could book but it was not a good idea as many flights were being cancelled because of the bad weather and because of difficulty in landing at Sucre airport. Having passed 48 hours in La Paz I thought I would seek the help of a professional and so entered the office of a tour operator just off the Sagarnaga the main tourist street to see if any outing at all may be possible.
I was dealt with by a large eyed Bolivian girl who exuded optimism. I noticed it was her habit to conclude every statement with a wide gummy smile. Very purple gums held an array of white irregular teeth, giving the smile a very peculiar edge. The first time it was produced I wanted to advise her to seek medical treatment in the hope she may be given antibiotics, but her overt good nature and obvious absence of pain brought my mind back to my desire to book a trip.
I was wondering about Sucre I told her, 'are there still difficulties with the planes'.
'No, the planes are leaving, but I can check if you like,' she replied.
' They go, but not always on time,' she continued. 'It is best to book the first one in the day, if it does not go you can get on the second one, if it does not go, you can get on the third one'.
I confess to not knowing a lot about airline management but this system seemed a little flawed.
There are three airlines she told me and shouting to her colleague said, 'Maya, check please, which company has any seats for tomorrow.'
Her colleague checked and my large eyed advisor continued joyfully to tell me. ' Air Boa is full for tomorrow, TAM it is a military airline it has cancelled all its flights. Amazonas has seats, but it may cancel its flights'.
So it is not a good idea to go to Sucre by plane? I proposed.
The bacterial smile appeared. 'No, its alright you can go'
'What if I book and my flight is cancelled will I get a refund?'
The smile was shut down and the large eyes looked disappointed. ' They do not give refunds, I am sorry no'.
'But what if the plane does not go?'
'It will go but not just on time. There is one plane every day to Sucre with Amazonas, it leaves at 4.30pm but it can leave any time. Sometimes it is still possible for it to leave at 10.00pm. If you are not happy with the plane you can take the bus.'
'Doesn't that take 12 hours and are there not some very serious accidents on the night buses. I have heard about people dying on the night buses.'
The smile was the widest it had been. ' No, I hear about some deaths on the road to Cochabamba,perhaps on the road to Potosi, but no, I don't think so, the road to Sucre is a good road, perhaps once every six months, something happens. We hear some stories. It is the weather'.
She wanted the very best for me I could tell that. It was not her fault the weather was as it was. She was like a child beginning algebra. The information was in front of her but she had no idea how to make the facts add up to X.
What if I go to Coroico instead? I suggested.
She was absolutely thrilled as if she had been waiting the whole of her life to sell a trip to Coroico.
'Coroico! I have very good drivers who can take you to Coroico. You go on the old road , go to the Coca plantation, see some things and you come back on the new road. $200 dollars and all done in one day.'
' Isn't the old road the most dangerous road in the world? Isn't that why they built the new road. Can't I just go and come back on the new road?'
'No the old road is not dangerous, it is very nice, it has some very nice views and our driver will have to go slowly because of all the bikes'
I had seen the posters of the local mountain bike companies selling trips, advertising ' The Hell Road', and be ' A Hell Road Survivor'. Pictures showed the precipitous shale trail among the verdant sub tropical greenery of the cliffs. One poster showed a trail no more than five feet wide running along a mountain edge. The 43km downhill ride was described as the adrenaline hit of a lifetime.
My good natured advisor really believed in her package. She was not trying to dupe me. She saw no danger at all. No possibility of landslip in the unceasing torrential rain, or of riot as her slow careful driver obstructed the path of the bikes.
'I tell you what, I will think about it, I said to her. It is difficult to know what to choose.'
'I know I am sorry. What to do? It's the weather', and she shrugged, a desperately pleasing shrug as I left.
Ten minutes later I came back. I had left my bag sitting on the chair in front of her.
'My bag', I said as I lifted it high in front of her large protruding eyes, incredulous she had not seen it and come after me.
' Yes', she smiled, as if I had left my bag deliberately to allow her to grow accustomed to its presence!
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